Thursday, October 11, 2007

Pest Control in the Garden!!!


By Arun Pratap Singh

Plant diseases are normally caused by living organisms called parasites. Plants can suffer from bacterial, viral and fungal attack just as we can. Important pests that suck the sap from the plants are mealy bugs, scale insects, aphids, thrips, jassids and mites of several kinds. The affected leaves curl up and get deformed. Chewing insects like Beetles, Cutworms, Grubs, Weevils, Locusts and several kinds of Caterpillars feed on leaves and other parts of the plants. Several kinds of flies and maggots lay the eggs under the fruit skin and feed on the pulp. Borers make holes in the stem, shoot, fruit or even the roots of the plants. Slugs and snails cause serious damage. Termites can be another serious problem in any garden. Chemical control is usually necessary where manual removal of pests is not possible.
Aphids: These are small insects and attack Rose, Dahlia, Chrysanthemum, annuals and some vegetable and fruit crops. The active period is usually March to May in Uttarakhand.
Control: Dichlorovos (Nuvan), Methyl Parathion (Metacid) or Dimethoate (Rogor) can be effectively used @ 2 ml/litre of water as foliar spray.
Jassids: They are tiny sucking insects that attack Rose, Dahlia, Chrysanthemum, Carnation, Gerbera, several ornamental plants, some annual flowering plants and some vegetable crops like Okra (Bhindi). Both the nymph and adult feed on leaf sap resulting in yellowing or bronzing and curling of leaves.
Control: Dichlorovos (Nuvan) 35 EC. For vegetable and fruit crops, it is better to spray Fenvalerate (Tatafen of M/s Rallis India) @ 2 ml/litre of water.
Thrips: These small insects suck the sap of the leaves. They attack roses, carnations, chrysanthemum, bulbous plants and annuals. The infested surface of the leaf or fruit becomes corky. They are most active during August to November. The result is creamy or yellow spots on the leaves. Control: Dimethoate (Rogor of M/s Rallis India) 30 EC, Ethion (Sumithion) 50 EC, Monocrotophos (Nuvacron or Monocil) 40 EC @ 2 ml/litre of water to be sprayed at 7 to 10 days interval.
Beetles: The beetles are round with the head hidden by the wings. They are brownish-yellow to deep orange with black spots or patches. Beetles attack marigold, aster, petunia, lilies and several others among the flowers and Cucurbits (gourds, cucumber and melons) and brinjal among the vegetables.
Control: Dichlorovos (Nuvan) 76 EC, Quinalphos, Endosulphan 35 EC @ 2ml /litre of water to be sprayed.
Grubs: Grubs are the larval stage of the Beetles. Grub damage in lawns occurs in spring and early summer when larvae feed on the roots of grass causing the grass plant to turn brown and die. Chafer grub attacks roses and several other plants. The larvae also damage the roots of strawberries, potatoes and other garden vegetables. They cause defoliation in flower beds, shrubs and trees.
Control: Application of Chlorpyriphos 20EC @ 2ml/ litre of water or Phorate 10G (Granules) in the soil or dusting the soil surface and the plant foliage with Lindane 6.5 % WP should do the job. Fenvalerate 10EC @ 3ml/litre can be used as a contact poison.
Caterpillars: There are several types of caterpillars and they cause severe damage to ornamentals and vegetables like cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, peas, potatoes and onions, amongst others. They can be hairy or non-hairy and of various colours. They are fruit eating, bud eating, bark eating or leaf eating.
Control: Cypermethrin 25 EC or Fenvalerate 10 EC @ 1.5 ml/litre of water should be sprayed at weekly intervals to achieve effective control. Traditionally, Endosulphan has been used @ 3ml/litre though it is best avoided in a home garden.
Cutworm: Cutworms usually stay in the soil during the day and come out during the night to feed on different parts of the plants. They usually attack chrysanthemum, carnation, marigold, bulbous plants like gladiolus. Vegetable crops like cabbage, cauliflower, beans, peas, lettuce and leafy vegetables are also attacked by cutworms. The cutworm chews into the plant’s stem at the ground level and chops it off. Once the attack occurs, immediate attention is required, because they attack and destroy rather rapidly.
Control: Against this pest only stronger pesticides are effective. Chlorpyriphos 20 EC or Endosulphan 35 EC and Carbaryl can be used as soil drench for very effective control.
Mites: A powerful hand lens is needed to see these pests. They are eight-legged insects found mostly on the underside of the leaves of vegetables, fruit trees, roses and other flowers, especially during the hot dry summer. One can see webbing similar to spider webs around the colonies of spider mites on leaves, stems, fruit and houseplants.
Control: In home gardens, Dimethoate (Rogor of M/s Rallis India) is the most common pesticide for this pest. The rate of application is 2 to 3 ml/litre of water. Endosulphan 35 EC, Quinalphos 25 EC. New formulations with better efficacy and safety profile like Fenpropathrin (Danitol of M/s Rallis India) 10 EC @ 1.5 ml/litre of water as spray. Red Spider Mite: They are similar in nature and action to other spider mites. They are bright red during the cooler months of the year but in summer they may turn yellowish or greenish. They usually attack rose, tea plantations but can infest almost any house plant in Uttarakhand. While in the northern plains they are destroyed to a large extent by scorching heat during May and June, they continue to survive in areas with milder climate like Dehradun, and the hills.
Control: Phorate 10 G granules are applied to the soil to the depth of 2 to 3 inches every three months at the time when new flush of leaves appears. Quinalphos, Ethion 50 EC (Fosmite or Sumithion), Oxydemeton Methyl (Metasysox of M/s Bayer India) and Endosulphan are also effective in controlling this pest. Fenpropathrin (Danitol of M/s Rallis India) 10 EC @1.5 ml/litre of water is used as spray.
Scale insects: These are small tiny insects with tough scales and are of varying colours and shapes depending on the species. These are very severe pests on a number of fruits, vegetables and ornamental plants, including roses. The scale insects have special preference for the rose family. They are tiny, with minute sucking mouth parts with which they suck the cell sap. The tree bark gets covered with a grey layer of overlapping scales. These insects are more active during February-March and August-October in Uttarakhand.
Control: Contact insecticides like Malathion and Systemic insecticides like Monocrotophos (Nuvacron), Ethion (Sumithion or Fosmite), Phosphamidon (Dimecron) and Oxydemeton-methyl (Metasystox of M/s Bayer) are effective against the scale insects.
Whiteflies: These pests can be detected when the plant is touched and the small white insects start to fly out. Tomato and Cabbage families of plants among the vegetable crops and Begonia, Geranium and Fuchsia among the ornamentals are the chief targets.
Control: Monocrotophos 36 SL @ 2 ml/ litre of water, Oxydemeton-methyl (Metasystox) 50 EC @ @ ml/litre, Ethion (Sumithion or Fosmite) 100 EC @ 1 ml/litre of water and Profenofos (Curacron of M/s Syngenta India) 50 EC @ 1ml/litre.
Fruit and Stem Borers: There are several species of Fruit, Stem, Pod and Bud Borers in India.
Control: All the wilted shoots should be pruned. Preventive measures of control are more effective. Fenvalerate 10 EC (Tatafen of M/s Rallis India) @ 1.5 ml/litre of water, Cypermethrin 25 EC or Monocrotophos 70 EC @ 2 ml/ litre of water can be sprayed at fortnightly intervals during the fruiting season. Another new generation chemical Profenofos 50 EC @ 1 ml/1.2 litres of water can be sprayed for better effect at the eggs stage. It has been observed to be effective against the eggs too. The crop should not be harvested for a week after the spray.
Termites: They normally appear in dry soil and attack both woody and herbaceous plants. They attack the roots of lawn grasses also. In India, the main pesticide used for termites is Chlorpyriphos. DDT, Aldrin and BHC have been banned and must not be used.
Control: The soil is normally drenched with Chlorpyriphos 20 EC @ 3 ml/litre of water. Lindane dust can also be mixed in the soil for control. Fenvalerate is also effective and is also used as house termiticide.
Diseases: There are a number of diseases which also attack the plants besides the pests and are usually of fungal, bacterial or viral generated. Viral diseases like Leaf Mosaic or Leaf Curl Virus are usually untreatable and it is better to destroy the affect plant as soon as the disease is observed. Many of the diseases are transmitted by pests that are carriers of these diseases. Preventing pests and fungi is effective way to prevent many diseases. However, a separate detailed article on diseases and their treatment would be done separately.

Tuesday, October 2, 2007

Preparing for Autumn! (Gardening Calendar for October)


Green Thumb

BY ARUN PRATAP SINGH

With the monsoon now gone, it becomes hotter again during the day in most parts of the country. But autumn has begun to settle here in Uttarakhand. The days may be warmer but the nights are chilly. The garden wears a different look in the months of October and November. While the lawns are at their greenest, some plants become shaggy and unshapely. Plumeria or the Pagoda Tree is in best bloom during October and November. We can still see greenery all around us even after the passage of the rains.Spray the plants for prevention of pest and fungal attack. Dimethoate(Rogor) or Dichlorovos (Nuvan )@ 2 ml/litre of water and a systemic fungicide like Carbendazim (Bavistin) @ 2 gm/litre of water should be sprayed to get rid of most pests like aphids, jassids and diseases like Mildew and stem rot.Chrysanthemum plants should be brought out in the full sun now that the rains are almost gone. They will also need to be staked with bamboo sticks. Buds start appearing in Chrysanthemum plants in Dehradun, Mussoorie and the rest of the hills in October. In Mussoorie and Nainital, they start to flower by the end of the month. The side buds in Chrysanthemum plants should be regularly removed in large flower varieties. Small doses of liquid manure are recommended as soon as buds appear but should not be followed after the buds start to open.For liquid manure or spray a water soluble compound mixture like Nitrophoska (of M/s BASF) or Polyfeed (of M/s Nagarjuna Fertilisers) are quite useful. For liquid feeding the plants, a dose of 5 gm/per litre of water is recommended, while for spray, a dose of 2 gm/litre is recommended. However, if Nitrophoska or Polyfeed is not available, an alternative mixture can be sprayed by mixing one part of Urea, one part of Single Super Phosphate, two parts of Muriate of Potash, one part of Sterilised Bone Meal, two parts of Powdered Neem Cake, ¼ part of Soil Agromin or Multiplex (Micronutrients) and ¼ part of Wood Ash or crushed Charcoal made from burnt wood. One can use 100 to 200 gms of this mixture per sq yards of bed soil. In pots, 5 to 15 gms of this mixture should be applied depending on the plants and the size of the pots. For green houseplants and the lawn one can alter the above formula by reducing the quantity of Potash to half and increasing the quantity of Urea by one-fourth. Feed the potted plants with the above mentioned mixture @ one to two table spoons per plant. Water immediately after.The same mixture can be fed to the Rose plants as well as Dahlia plants from October onwards at a regular interval of 15 days. Some cleaning work is required in the garden. As mentioned in this column earlier, the Rose plants should be pruned during the third week of September in Dehradun, Almora and Haldwani. HOWEVER, IF YOU HAVE NOT STILL PRUNED ROSE BUSHES, PRUNE THEM NOW WITHOUT ANY FURTHER DELAY. In Haridwar, Rishikesh and Roorkee, mid-October is the proper time for pruning the roses. Mild Contact pesticides like Malathion and Fenvalerate @ 2 ml/litre of water can be sprayed to prevent aphids and thrips normally active at this time of the year. For the prevention of fungal diseases, a mild contact fungicide like Mancozeb (Dithane M-45) should be sprayed @ 3gm/litre of water. The first flush of Rose will bloom in November and after a short slumber in late December and January, the next flush will bloom in February and continue till April. A compound fertiliser like Polyfeed (M/s Nagarjuna Fertilisers) or Nitrophoska (M/s BASF) @ 3 gm/litre of water may also be added to the solution. Feed the rose plants with a Rose Mix or the mixture mentioned above @ 25 to 40 gm /sq mt. Some shrubs like Jasmine are pruned now. The lawn must be mowed now and then fertilised with the lawn mix @ 500 gm/100sq. ft. Dahlia cuttings planted earlier in September would be ready for transplantation now.However, the cuttings can be taken even during the first fortnight of this month and planted in sand or other suitable rooting medium.Cuttings should be watered very mildly but regularly till they root. They can be sprayed occasionally with a Contact Fungicide like Captan or Mancozeb @ 3 gm/litre to prevent Foot and Stem rot.October is best time to sow seeds for winter and spring flower annuals. Seeds should be sown in the seeds trays, of all the winter or spring annuals like Marigold, Calendula, Antirrhinum (Dog Flower), Bellis (English Daisy), Larkspur, Sweet Sultan, Sweet Pea, Nasturtium, Pansy, Petunia, Alyssum, Candytuft, Verbena, Phlox, Cineraria, Poppy, Paper Flower, Hollyhock, Salvia, Nemasia, Mimulus, Mesembryanthemum (Ice Plant or Motimum), Sweet William Dianthus and Carnation. Out of all those mentioned above, Hollyhock, Sweet William, Sweet Pea and Larkspur are essentially sown in situ directly in the beds where they have to flower. Winter and spring flowering bulbous plants can be sown now. Bulbs of Iris, Daffodil, Narcissus (Nargis), Gladioli, Hyacinth, Tulip, Lilium (Asiatic or Oriental Lily), Calla Lily and Ranunculus should be sown in the first fortnight of this month. IN THE HILLS, October is the time when summer flowering plants like Fuchsia, Begonia and Dahlia are preparing to become dormant. Dahlia, Gladioli, Begonia bulbs are dug out and stored for the winter. Seedlings of the spring annuals sown in September may be transplanted now.

KITCHEN AND FRUIT GARDEN:

In the Kitchen garden, it is time to sow Radish, Carrot, Turnip, Lettuce, Beetroot (Palak), Garlic, Onion and French-Bean. Transplant the seedlings of Tomato, Brinjal, Cabbage and Cauliflower. If not sown earlier, these can also be sown now in the first fortnight of the month. Knoll-kohl and the Continental vegetables like Broccoli, Brussels-Sprouts, Celery, Lettuce, Leek and Chinese- Cabbage can also be sown now. Potato should be sown or planted on ridges. Earth up the potato plants when they are about 5 to 8 inches high. For a crop of Spring Onions, sow the seeds now. Regular weeding and hoeing is must. Air and Ground layered stems of fruit trees like Citrus, Litchi, may be separated from mother plants and planted at proper locations on the garden. New growth in Citrus is attacked by Citrus leaf miner producing the zigzag waxy tunnels over the surface of the leaf. Dead and dry wood may be removed in citrus. Spray Phosphamidon (Demicron) or Monocrotophos (Nuvacron) @ 2 ml/litre of water.IN THE HILLS, this is the time to dig out potato. Lettuce may be transplanted if sown in September. It is harvest time for Lettuce, Cucumber, Okra (Bhindi), Tomato, Capsicum in the hills. Strawberry runners may also be planted now. Also seeds of wild Almond, Apple and other fruit trees are planted for rootstock use. Plum, Apricot, Apple and Pear can be grafted now.

Sunday, September 23, 2007

GREEN THUMBRoses Part 2- Pruning, caring for and protecting Rose plants!



By ARUN PRATAP SINGH
Last week, we discussed about selection of Rose cultivars suitable for various uses and locations. We also discussed how to plant them, how to grow and prune them. Growing rose plants is not very easy but a very rewarding hobby nevertheless. Rose plants must be fed carefully and protected from various pests and diseases as they are vulnerable to a number of pathogens and diseases. Here we shall dwell on the maintenance, feeding and protection of Rose plants.
Feeding: Though, feeding of Rose plants was discussed last week too in some detail, it is essential that we know more about feeding requirements of Rose plants. For example, it is essential to remember not to fertilise newly planted roses at least for two months. Rainfall is heaviest during the monsoon months. Heavy rains during this period leach fertilisers from the soil and interfere with soil aeration, causing plants to drop older leaves. The three basic nutrients for health growth of any plant Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium are needed in balanced applications. If one desires to avoid chemical fertilisers, one can try a mixture of Mustard or Neem Cake, Bone meal, compost, cattle dung manure. A commercial fertiliser should be applied to Rose plantings 5 to 7 times a year (each time plants produce a flush of bloom).A formula found suitable for Uttarakhand was mentioned last week. Another alternative formula suitable for this region can also be used. A complex mix of chemical and organic mixture has been tried by the columnist with good success here. Alternatively one can try a complex mix of chemical and organic fertilisers. Mix 1 kg Ammonium Sulphate (or Urea), 2 kg Single Super Phosphate, Potassium sulphate (or MOP) 1 kg, 5 kg of pulverised Neem, Mustard or Groundnut cake, 3 kg. Sterilised Bone meal, Wood ash or crushed wood charcoal 2 kg, Iron Sulphate 250 gm, Magnesium Sulphate 200 gm, Soil Agromin 300 gm. About 125 gm of this powder can be used @ per sq mt. or three spoons per pot. Foliar spray or liquid feeding is also useful. For this it is better to use some compound fertiliser like Polyfeed or Nitrophoska @ 3 gm/litre for spray or @ 5 gm/litre for liquid feed given in form of fertigation. Remember to water thoroughly immediately after the fertiliser application.Watering: The amount and frequency of application depends on soil type, bush size, and the rainfall in your area. When watering roses, be sure to soak the soil well as they need more than just light sprays of water. It is useful to wash off their leaves every week or so to remove the dust particles. Accumulation of water soluble salts in root area and the resulting injury to roots is prevented by thorough irrigation. Roses should be irrigated with one inch of water once each week unless a similar amount of rain falls. In simple words, that would mean good watering twice a week. However, in May and June, one may need to water the rose plants even more frequently. Potted rose plants need to be watered and fertilised more often. In summer months, daily watering may be required in case of potted rose plants.
PRUNING AND GROOMING
Pruning should be done once each year during Third Week of September in Doon Valley and regions like Almora and Haldwani. In the plains of Haridwar, Rishikesh and Udham Singh Nagar it must however be done during mid-October. In Mussoorie and the rest of the hills, it must be done in late January during the dormancy. Major yearly pruning consists of removing some healthy top growth as well as twigs and branches that are dead, diseased, injured, unsightly or thin and spindly. Shortening main canes and lateral branches, removing small twigs and some of the oldest canes improves the plant’s form. It also regulates height and produces better light conditions within the plant. Leave at least half the length of each main cane that is one to three years old. The first flowers can be expected eight to nine weeks after pruning. To avoid dieback and encourage rapid healing, pruning cuts should be made just above a dormant bud (eye). When an entire branch is removed, make a smooth cut at the point of juncture. Flower buds should be removed for the first two months after planting to encourage growth and help to establish a new plant. Plants should be well established before flowers are cut with longer stems, and then only cut the length of stem needed. Remove suckers (leafy shoots) that develop from the rootstock below the graft union by breaking them off rather than by cutting in order to remove all basal buds. Rootstock suckers can be recognized by their location and their different leaf appearance. Remove dead wood and canes showing stem disease symptoms when they are first noticed. Cut the affected part back to healthy wood and remove the affected part from the garden area.
PROTECTION
Many pests and fungal diseases afflict the roses. Black-spot, Powdery and Rust are three most common diseases afflicting the rose plants in India. Pests can also cause problems for the plants. Aphids, Thrips, Beetles, Borers, Rose midge, caterpillars and worms, Mites are some of the more troublesome Rose pests.
PESTS
Aphids: Probably the most commons pests in a rose garden are Aphids. They are tiny green bugs. They like the tender leaves and the new buds. They get into groups and suck the rose juices. Spray Malathion or Fenvalerate @ 2 ml/litre of water.
Thrips: They are little bugs that one can hardly see them. They affect the flower buds killing them before they open or just as they open. Spray Malathion or Fenvelerate @ 2 ml/litre of water.
Caterpillars: They don’t do that much damage to the flowers, but they do damage to the leaves. However, they chew the leaves and can damage the plants. Spray Fenvalerate @ 3 ml/litre of water or Cypermethrin 10 @ 3 ml/litre.
Spider Mites: They are tiny spiders (not real spiders, though) that concentrate on the leaves. They cover them with a little spider web and soon the leaves have orange spots. They are not related to common spiders. For treatment spray Phosmite or Quinalphos @ 2 ml/litre twice at ten days interval.
Red Scale: This is a serious pest on the rose plants. The branches get covered with reddish brown crusts under which the insects suck the juice of the plants. To control, spray the plants in Malathion and Rogor @ 3 ml/litre of water twice in April and then in October.
DISEASES
Diseases are caused by fungal attack.
Black Spot: They are bad in warm, humid weather. They attack wet leaves. Don’t water at night and keep good air circulation. Spray the plant with systemic fungicide like Carbendazim (Bavistin) @ 3 gm/litre or Thiophonate Methyl (Topsin) @ 2 gm per litre of water twice at seven days interval.
Powdery Mildew: It’s that white powder on the leaves. Like any other fungus, it’s more frequent in humid areas. Keep good air circulation around your plants and keep the leaves dry. For control, spray the plants with Dithane M-45 @ 3 gm/litre of water. Repeat the pray at least once more @ ten days interval.
Die-back: When a stem turns black, you have Die-back. This normally appears after the pruning. Remove that stem cane as soon as possible before it has a chance to spread. Don’t forget to clean your pruning tools with alcohol after that. Spray the plants with a systemic and contact fungicide like Bavistin @ 3 gm/litre.

Sunday, September 16, 2007

GREEN THUMB- Roses Part-I




Choosing & Planting Rose Bushes!
By ARUN PRATAP SINGH
“Rose! Thou art the sweetest flower that ever drank the amber shower: Even the Gods, who walk the sky, are amorous of thy scented sigh.” This is how the rose has been described by Thomas Moore. The rose continues to be the world’s most popular flower. Improved cultivars available today have increased this long standing appreciation of roses as flowering shrubs. In India, roses grow and bloom all year in milder climates like Bangalore and Mysore. They bloom at least eight months of the year in Dehradun, lying somewhat dormant during winter months of December and January. In Mussoorie and the rest of the hills, they flower from late April to October while remaining dormant during the winter. A rose bush can supply more blooms suitable for cutting than any other flowering shrub. Each year plants produce from five to seven “flushes” of bloom of one to two week’s duration and a few flowers between “flushes”. SELECTING ROSE CULTIVARS
Indoor display in cut flower-arrangements and outdoor display in garden landscape plantings are two distinct uses of roses. Some rose cultivars are equally suitable for either use, but most serve in one of these uses better than the other. Preference for roses with a special trait may guide one’s selection. Some gardeners prefer roses with a particular flower colour, form or scent. Even on small properties, or within a small, sunny patio, there may be enough space to grow miniature roses. Only a few climbing roses produce enough flowers here to justify weekly care, but these few are appreciated. Some Popular Cultivars in IndiaFrom the gardening perspective, the roses are classified into six broad categories. They are: Tea Roses, Hybrid Tea Roses, Floribunda, Miniature, Climbers and Ramblers. Though, another class called Grandiflora is also seen these days, in reality they are mostly HT plants that have flowers as big and well formed as HT and grow in clusters like Floribunda. The most common types grown in India are Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Miniature and the Climbers. Some popular cultivars in various categories are-HYBRID TEA (HT) ROSES- Hybrid Teas are tall, elegant plants producing the classic long-stem rose. They produce individual blossoms and flower repeatedly during the season.Popular cultivars: Amalia, Kardinal, Christian Dior, Avon, Sugandha, Olympiad, Bhim, Amalia, First Red, Crimson Glory, Alec’s Red, Ena Harkness among Red; Black Pearl, Papa Meilland, Mr Lincoln, Oklahoma, Ashwini, Kajal, Black Pearl among Deep Blackish Red; Doris Tysterman, Just Joey, Super Star, Romantica, Sunset Song among Orange; Brandy, Whisky, Ambassador among the Apricot shades; Virgo, Via Mala, Anastasia, Lemon Sherbat, John F. Kennedy, Dr. Homi Bhabha, Jawahar and White Masterpiece among White; Solidor, King’s Ransom, Gold Medal, Landora and Ganga among Yellow; Eiffel Tower, Jadis, First Prize, Century Two, Mrinalini and Peter Frankenfeld among Pink; Blue Moon, Paradise, Lagerfeld, Sweet Surrender among Purple; Anvil Spark, Sahastradhara, Careless Love among Striped; American Heritage, Double Delight, Alinka, Peace, Mon Cheri, Charleston and Bajajo among the Bicolour are popular.
FLORIBUNDA ROSES- They grow in clusters rather than singly. They are ideal for borders or containers, floribundas provide an almost constant show of colour, and bloom more freely than teas. They are lower growing and hardier. Popular Cultivars: Gabriella, Evelyn Fison, Show Biz among Red; Mercedes, City of Belfast among Vermillion; Flamenco, Orange Sensation, Shola, Zambra among Orange; Apricot Nector among Apricot; Queen Elizabeth, Belinda among Pink; Angel Face, Africa Star, Intrigue and Shocking Blue among Purple; Iceberg, Summer Snow and Himangini among White; Fugitive, Sunflare, Bunny Gold and All Gold among Yellow; Banajaran, Charisma among Bicolours are popular varieties.
MINIATURE- Miniature Roses are ideal for Pots and Window gardens. They flower for a longer time during the year. Red Flush, Little Buckaroo, Little Flirt and Don Don among Red; Cri Cri, Coralin, Starina, Sun Blaze among Orange; Cup Cake, Cuddles, Rosemarin and Merline among Pink; Lavender Jewel among Purple; Baby Sun Gold, Little Sunset, Yellow Doll, Bit O’ Sunshine among Yellow; Green Ice, Cinderella among White are popular varieties. Sympathie, Peace, La Marque, Climbing Peace, Golden Showers are popular among climbers.
PLANTING-Rose bushes should be planted from September to November or from February to March in spring in Doon. In the hills they are either planted in January when dormant or in Summer (Mid April to May) when they are quite active.
PLACEMENT AND SPACING: Except when featured as specimen plants, rose bushes are usually grouped in the same area rather than in scattered plantings. Grouping roses in beds makes a more attractive display of flowers, and simplifies soil preparation and maintenance. Beds four to six feet wide are recommended for single and two-row plantings with the plants spaced alternately, so that both sides can be reached easily. Plant rose bushes where they will get direct sunlight for at least six hours during the day. If shading can not be avoided, choose locations where morning sunlight is available. HT roses are normally planted 18 inches apart, Climbers 2 ft apart while floribundas are usually planted 12 to 15 inches apart. Miniatures are planted normally in pots or 9 to 12 inches apart in the beds.
Soil Preparation: The best soil for growing roses is one that has good drainage, which allows air and water movement to and from roots, and will hold an adequate supply of moisture and nutrients. The soil should be a mixture of seven parts grounded clay soil, five parts leaf mould and three parts grounded half-burnt clay. Also mixed with this soil, 100 grams steamed bone meal and 10 grams super phosphate, per square-feet. The bed should be little higher from the surrounding ground, so that it should not be water-logged. Nutrients are most readily available to the roots in a moderately acid to slightly acid soil (pH 5.5 to 6.5). Organic amendments used to increase aeration, water holding capacity and mineral nutrient retention include compost, leaf-mould, peat, sawdust, wood shavings and manures. A 4-inch layer of any of these materials or any combination of two or more will improve most soils. Mix amendments thoroughly and evenly to a depth of 12 inches. Feeding: Soon after pruning, the soil should be dug up around the roots and filled with well rotten Cattle Dung Manure@ 8 to 10 kg per sq. mt should be applied. In addition, Sterilised Bone Meal should be applied @ 60 gm/sq mt. about ten days after the pruning, a mixture of One part of Urea, two parts each of Single Super Phosphate and Potash and 1/8 part each of Iron Sulphate and Magnesium Sulphate should be applied to the soil @ 50 gm/ sq mt. A foliar spray of Compound fertilisers like Polyfeed or Nitrophoska @ 3 gm/litre is also useful for faster growth and better availability of all nutrients to the plants. Feeding should be done every fortnight during the growth season. To get quality blooms, fertilise your rose plant four to five times in a year. They should not be fed from May to August in Doon. First feed should be in end For September, before the beginning of new leaf following it once every month till till Mid March. Prepare this side feed by mixing 150 gram steamed bone meal, 20 grams super phosphate and 10 grams sulphate of potash for each plant. There are also some fertilisers available in the market, which are specially made for rose plant.To prepare a good rose mixture, mix one part of Urea, 2 parts of Single Super Phosphate, 2 parts of Potash, one part of Sterilised Bone Meal, 3 parts of pulverised Neem Cake, half part of powdered Wood charcoal and one-tenth part of Magnesium Sulphate, one-tenth part of Iron Sulphate, and one-tenth of micro nutrients available under brand names such as Multiplex , Stera Meal or Tracel.
(Next week: Pruning rose plants and on diseases and pest management)

News Analysis: Review of PMGSY in Uttarakhand

Progress remains tardy in PMGSY
By Arun Pratap Singh
Dehradun, 15 Sept: Uttarakhand continues to lag in the implementation of the Pradhan Mantri Gramin Sadak Yojana. In fact, the implementation has been so poor that, as against the eligible 842 villages for the Pradhan Mantri Gramin Sadak Yojana, only 31 villages have been provided with connectivity, so far. During the year 2006-07, as against the target of providing connectivity to 106 habitations, only 15 habitations were provided with connectivity. As against the target of construction of 422 kms of roads, only 106 km length of roads was constructed during the year 2006-07. Although, there was expectation of better utilisation of funds after the new Chief Minister, BC Khanduri, took over, 6 months on, the situation has not improved significantly.The Centre has, so far, cleared proposals to connect only 340 habitations, according to the sources. But it was not happy with the fact that implementation had showed no improvement even in the current financial year at a recent review meeting held in New Delhi. It may be recalled that Chief Minister BC Khanduri had promised the Union Rural Development Minister that he would make sure that the implementation was speeded up.What has been the implementation during the period 1 April to 31 July i.e. during the first 4 months of the current financial year? The target expenditure was fixed at Rs 200 crores. However, in reality, only Rs 23.85 crores was spent. In other words, only 11.93 percent of the financial target was achieved. As far as physical progress was concerned, against a target of 1169 km length of roads, only 57 kms of road length was constructed. In other words, only 4.88 percent of the physical target was achieved. Similarly, from yet another perspective, against a target of reaching 180 habitations, only 7 were reached in reality, which meant that only 3.89 percent of the target was achieved.Some improvement is certainly there as compared to previous year, but it is not a significant one. The government will have to really speed things up in the coming months if it wants to achieve even half the target for the year.According to sources, the Chief Minister held a review meeting in respect of PMGSY in the last week of August and expressed unhappiness at the slow progress in the scheme. Sources disclose that the Rural Development Department had decided to adjust the deficit of the first quarter in the remaining quarters and directed the officials to pace up the work. According to them, the state would have to spend at least Rs 21 crores each month and construct about 125 km road length in that period. But, so far, only Rs 6 crores have been spent each month. It is learnt that the PWD has promised it would be able to utilise Rs 102 crores in the PMGSY. It remains to be seen how the department will be able to meet its promised target.
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Friday, September 7, 2007

Flowering and Ornamental Trees for Home Garden!


Green Thumb
Flowering and Ornamental Trees for Home Garden!
BY Arun Pratap Singh
Trees have been growing on this planet for the last 50 million years. They provide us fruit, shelter, shade, fuel wood, and timber wood for making furniture, ships, paper, and many other innumerable products. In addition, they also give us great joy with their beauty, fragrance and flowers. Rainy season is ideal for planting most evergreen trees, though many of them can also be planted in early part of spring (Mid February in Doon, and First week of April in the hills. Deciduous trees are best planted in while in dormant stage during the winter months.
With the gardening space getting smaller and smaller particularly in the cities, it is getting uncommon to plant a large number of trees in home gardens. However, many gardens still have enough space to accommodate some trees. Small trees are now more in fashion as compared to much larger trees that formed the focal points in the gardens in earlier days. It was also common to have a combination of shade trees, fruit trees and flowering trees in most gardens of India. But now, planting shorter flowering trees and some dwarf fruit trees has become the norm.
There are a large number of trees that can be planted in home gardens or farm houses here in Uttarakhand. To make a proper selection of suitable trees, some things need to be considered. It is important to remember how big is the garden, what is the purpose of selecting any tree, where is it to be planted in the garden.
Planting the Trees
Preparation of Ground: Trees are perennial plants and will live for many years. It is therefore best to prepare the soil and the ground as well as possible. As per the landscape plan, pits should be dug up to 2 x 2 x 2 ft size. For smaller trees and shrubs, the pits can be smaller. The soil should be well mixed with 10 to 15 kg of cattle dung manure, 50 gm of Sterilised Bone Meal, one kg of Neem Cake and 10 gm of some soil insecticide like Fenvalerate or Chlorpyriphos dust to check the attack of termites. This dusting must be immediately followed by watering to settle down the soil. If the soil does not have good drainage, then it is important to improve the soil by adding bulky organic matter and large amount of coarse sand after digging the entire soil up to a depth of four to six ft. This is not an easy thing. After this, the planting can be done in the centre of the pit. Spacing should be done as per the size of tree to be planted. For example, a small flowering tree like Delonix Regia (Gulmohar) would need a spacing of 8 to 10 ft between each tree per row, Jacaranda will require about 12 ft to 15 ft. of spacing between each tree..
SELECTION OF TREES
The selection of trees would depend upon many factors which have to be taken into account when selecting the trees.
Purpose of Growing: We must know if we want our tree to be a specimen, or provide us shade. Is it is going to be ornamental foliage or a flowering one? We must know if we want them for our avenues or for screening purposes.
Specimen Trees: Such trees are planted singly for their attractive shape and beautiful foliage or for drooping branches which reflect humility. Some suitable trees are Araucaria cookie, Callistemon lanceolatus (Bottle Brush), Magnolia grandiflora (Champa), Plumeria alba (Pagoda Tree or Firangipani), Cassia fistula (Amaltas), Cassia nodosa (Pink Cassia), Delonix regia (GulMohar), Erythrina indica (Parrot Tree) and Salix babylonica (Weeping Willow).
Shady trees: Such trees have mostly a round canopy of umbrella crown. Their leaves are normally large and dense so that no or little sun is allowed underneath them. They are planted with an aim to provide shade in a particular part of the garden. Common trees grown for this purpose in Uttarakhand are, Ficus beghalensis (Banyan tree not suitable for hills), Ficus Infectoria (Pilkhan), Ficus Benjamina, Mangifera indica (Mango- Not suitable for the hills), Jackfruit, Melia azedarach (Persian Lilac), Milletia ovalifolia (Rosewood), Pongamia pinnata (Karanj), Mimuspos elengi (Maulsari), and Azadirachta indica (Neem - not suitable for the Hills)
Flowering Trees: These trees produce colourful flowers and are planted for their beautiful flowers. One can choose as per one's choice. Since different trees may flower at different times, it may be wise to choose such trees that some of the other tree is always in bloom at any time of the year. Some common flowering trees grown in Uttarakhand are Bauhunia spp. (White or pink flowers during Spring when leafless-Deciduous), Callistemon (Bottle Brush- flowering from all the year except in winter), Cassia fistula (Amaltas-deciduous flowers from April to August), Cassia nodosa (Pink Cassia- flowers April to August), Jacaranda acutifolia (Deciduous tree flowers from March to June and in the hills from April to July), Erythrina blackii & Erythrina cristagalli- (Deciduous tree-red flowers March to May), Plumeria alba, Plumeria acutifolia, Butea monosperma (Dhak), Thespesia populnea (Round the year), Lagerstroemia speciosa (Jarul or Bigger Sawani- flowers during the rainy season) Tecoma gaudichaudi (Yellow flowers from May to September), Tecoma Stans (Yellow flowers all through the year), Magnolia Grandiflora, Magnolia Solungiana (Beautiful Pink Flowers during spring months highly suitable for the Hills as well as Doon Valley) and Delonix regia (Gulmohar- flowers march to June but susceptible to frost in colder regions of the state).
Trees for Screening: Tall upright trees can be planted very close to each other to give an ultimate look of curtain or screen. Such trees are planted to hide some objects or boundaries. Some suitable trees are Grevillea robusta (Silver Oak), Eucalyptus sp., Poplar sp. and Polyathia longifolia (Ashok). They are more suitable for a large home garden or farm houses. However it is quite common to see Polyathia trees in Doon even in smaller home gardens.
For Fragrance: For this purpose, trees like Pterospermum acerifolium (Kanak Champa), Plumeria alba (Pagoda Tree), Magnolia grandiflora (Bari Champa), Michelia Champaka, (Swarna Champa), Mismuspos elengi (Molsari) and Millingtonia hortensis (Akash Neem) are suitable.
Trees for the hills: Although most of the trees mentioned before are suitable, but some like Delonix regia, Ficus Benghalensis, Ficus infectora (Pilkhan), Mismuspos elengi (Molsari) and Mechelia champaka are not very suitable. Some other trees like Junipererous communis, Malus (Crab Apple), Willow, Cedar, Maple (Acer japonicum), Gingko Biloba, Myrtus communis ( Myrtle), Cypress and Rhododendron are very suitable and should be grown.
Fruit trees: Mango, Sapota, Jackfruit and Guava are not suitable for the hills. Other like Apple, Walnut, Pear, and apricot are not suitable for the plains.
Most of the deciduous trees for the hills should be planted in winter months when dormant. In the hills it is better to plant evergreen trees in spring as compared to the Monsoon.

Monday, September 3, 2007

(Gardening Calendar for SEPTEMBER)



Cleaning time in the Garden!


By Arun Pratap Singh

Come September and the garden begins to demand a different kind of attention than in other monsoon months. A lot of cleaning work is required in the garden. In, Uttarakhand, the frequency of the rain is considerably reduced and the rains are almost gone before the last week begins! This is the time when some shrubs and climbers like Hibiscus, Pentas, Ixora, Jasmine, Allamanda, Tabernaemontana, Bougainvillea, Tecomeria, Lagerstroemia, Lantana, Rondeletia, Plumeria and Plumbago to be at their prime. Among the trees, Cassia Fistula (Amaltas), Cassia Javanica, Tecoma Gaudichaura are at their best. Among the foliage and flowering houseplants, Croton, Dracaena, Maranta, Gloxinia, African Violet, Beloperone, Pachystachis are their best at this time of the year. In the hills, Hydrangea, Privet, Kerria Japonica, Fuchsia, Stephanotis, Rose, Begonia are flowering at their best. As soon as the rains end, it starts to get warmer in the day. One must regularly water the plants now. With so much of water going into the soil, most nutrients get leached out from the soil by the time rains end. This is time to fertilise most plants and prevent the diseases by cleaning and spraying the preventive pesticides or fungicides. Mild Contact pesticides like Malathion and Fenvalerate @ 2 ml/litre of water can be sprayed to prevent aphids and thrips normally active at this time of the year. For the prevention of fungal diseases, a mild contact fungicide like Mancozeb (Dithane M-45) should be sprayed @ 3gm/litre of water can be sprayed.To fertilise the plants, a good fertiliser mix can be prepared by mixing one part of Urea, one part of Single Super Phosphate, two parts of Muriate of Potash, one part of Sterilised Bone Meal, two parts of Powdered Neem Cake, ¼ part of Soil Agromin or Multiplex (Micronutrients) and ¼ part of Wood Ash or crushed Charcoal made from burnt wood. One can use 100 to 200 gm of this mixture per sq yard of bed soil. In pots 5 to 15 gm of this mixture should be applied depending on the plants and the size of the pots. For green houseplants and the lawn one can alter the above formula by reducing the quantity of Potash and increasing the quantity of Urea. The Rose plants are normally pruned in Mid-October in North India but, it gets very cold in the valley and the hills during the months of December and January and the Rose buds do not bloom during these months. IT IS THEREFORE BETTER TO PRUNE THE ROSE PLANTS AROUND MID-SEPTEMBER IN MOST PARTS OF UTTARAKHAND FOOTHILLS. The first flush of Rose will bloom in November and after a short slumber in late December and January, the next flush will bloom in February and continue till April. In the hills, roses are normally pruned at the end of winter. To prune the rose plants, remove some healthy top growth as well as twigs and branches that are dead, diseased, injured, unsightly or thin and spindly. Shorten the main canes and lateral branches, removing small twigs and some of the oldest canes. Leave at least half the length of each main cane that is one to three years old. The first flowers can be expected eight to nine weeks after pruning. To avoid dieback and encourage rapid healing, pruning cuts should be made just above a dormant bud (eye). When an entire branch is removed, make a smooth cut at the point of juncture. Paint the cut parts with Chaubatia paste (a fungicidal paste prepared by mixing four parts each of Red Lead, Copper Carbonate and five parts of Linseed Oil). After the pruning it is beneficial to spray the Rose plants with a solution containing Mancozeb @ 3 gm/litre and Malathion @ 3 ml/litre of water. A compound fertiliser like Polyfeed (M/s Nagarjuna Fertilsers) or Nitrophoska (M/s BASF) @ 3 gm/litre of water may also be added to the solution. Feed the rose plants with a Rose Mix or the mixture mentioned above @ 25 to 40 gm /sq mt.With the rains getting less frequent now, the lawn must be mowed now and then fertilised with the lawn mix @ 500 gm/100sq. ft. The Chrysanthemum plants may now be transplanted to their final pots. They will also need to be staked with bamboo sticks. Spray them for prevention of pest and fungal attack. Feed them with the above mentioned mixture @ one to two table spoons per plant. Water immediately after. Dahlia cuttings can be taken now and planted in sand or other suitable rooting medium. Dahlia cuttings root easily and very fast. If planted early in September, they should be ready for transplantation by the end of the month. Cuttings should be watered very mildly but regularly till they root. They can be sprayed occasionally with a Contact Fungicide like Captan or Mancozeb @ 3 gm/litre to prevent Foot and Stem rot. Seeds can be sown of some winter or spring annuals like Marigold, Calendula, Larkspur, Sweet Sultan, Nasturtium, Clarkia, Verbena, Phlox, Sweet William and Dianthus and Carnation in the last week of September. In the hills, Tuberous and fibrous Begonia, Hydrangea, Fuchsia will still be blooming at their best. In the seeds trays, seeds of Spring Annuals like Carnation, Pansy, Delphinium, Hollyhock, Petunia, Cosmos, Verbena, Phlox, Sweet William and Dianthus can be sown. Hydrangea, Fuchsia and other permanent shrubs should be fed in this month.

KITCHEN AND FRUIT GARDEN: In the Kitchen garden, this is proper time to sow Radish, Carrot, Turnip, Lettuce, Beetroot (Palak), Garlic, Onion and French-Bean. Transplant the seedlings of Tomato, Brinjal, Cabbage and Cauliflower. If not sown earlier, these can also be sown now in the first fortnight of the month. Continental vegetables like Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Celery, Leek and Chinese Cabbage can also be sown now. Potato can also be sown now for an early crop. Regular weeding and hoeing is must. Air and Ground layered stems of fruit trees like Citrus, Litchi, may be separated from mother plants and planted at proper locations on the garden.In the hills, this is time to dig out potato. If now sown earlier, Lettuce may still be sown in early September. With the reduced rains now, it is harvest time for Cucumber in the hills. Strawberry runners may also be planted now. Also seeds of wild Almond, Apple and other fruit trees are planted for rootstock use. Plum, Apricot, Apple and Pear can be grafted now.

Sunday, August 26, 2007

Shrubs for your Garden!




Shrubs for your Garden!


By Arun Pratap Singh


It is not the size of the plant that makes it either a tree or a shrub. Shrubs are usually differentiated from the trees by the fact that they lack a single trunk that the trees have. Like the trees, they can be deciduous, coniferous, or evergreen. Dwarf shrubs can be of height just half a foot to 3 feet while taller shrubs can have up to 15 to 18 ft of height. Shrubs play a vital role in turning a patch of ground into a garden. As a permanent framework around which showy annuals and perennials are interwoven year by year, they add interest and variety with their leaves, flowers, berries and sometimes brightly coloured bark. The flowering shrubs produce bundles of joy with the beautiful flowers, while the fragrant ones delight our noses. Shrubs are very popular amongst gardeners on account of their great diversity in colour of flowers, height, flowering seasons and ease in propagation. They are good substitutes to trees in smaller gardens. They are also used as hedges, as screens, focal points, and as mini trees. They enhance the beauty of any garden, big or small. Rose is the most common shrub grown in gardens throughout the world.


SELECTION OF SHRUBS


Homeowners must be aware of basic shrub characteristics to make wise selections. Each plant or plant group must serve a useful purpose to achieve a well-designed landscape. People usually select plants with bright flowers or unusual foliage. Only a limited number of unusual or accent plants can be used effectively in the landscape and their location must be skilfully planned. A complete landscape plan should be developed before the plants are purchased. Shrubs are selected on the basis of ultimate size, plant form, foliage characteristics, flower colour, season of bloom, and adaptation to the planting site. Knowledge of these characteristics allows the designer or home gardener to choose proper plant materials to create the desired landscape. Shrub growth habit is quite variable and can be categorized as broad spreading, spreading, globose, upright spreading, upright or columnar. Shrubs are evaluated by their adaptability to the environmental conditions of the landscape site. Environmental conditions include the amount of sunlight (full sun, partial shade, or shade) and tolerance to salt spray, particularly in coastal areas. Soil characteristics of the site may restrict shrub selection and some shrubs will only thrive if the sites are irrigated and fertilized regularly. Some shrubs tolerate poorly drained soils while others grow best in dry sandy soils.


FLOWERING SHRUBS


These shrubs produce flowers and are grown for the mass effect and carpeting purposes. They can give a spectacular look to any garden. Various shrubs flower at different times of the year and one may pick them in a way that there can be flowers almost any time of the year. When deciding what type of shrub to plant, the answer depends on what you need in your landscape. Rounded shrubs like boxwood and holly work really well for borders. Vertical shrubs, such as Hollywood juniper, work in front of windowless walls (You wouldn’t want a tall shrub in front of a window). Arching shrubs, such as butterfly bush, can stand alone by themselves.Some common flowering shrubs in North India and especially in Uttarakhand are Hibiscus rosa sinensis (Gurhal), Hibiscus mutabilis, Achania malavaviscus (Hibiscus like red flowers which do not open), Brunfelsia hopeana (Commonly called Francisea with Light violet changing to lavender and then to white on fading), Gardenia, Ixora Parviflora (very beautiful terminally clustered flowers in red, pink, orange. white and yellow ( Flowers in hot season, not suitable for the hills and often dies during winter in Doon), Pentas (red, pink, violet or white flowers throughout the year), Jatropha podagrica, Lagerstroemia indica (Commonly called Sawani and flowers in summer and monsoon), Plumbago capensis (purple flowers round the year), Nerium indicum (Called Kaner), Poinsettia pulcherrima (Red, pink or cream white bracts). Commonly called Christmas plant as it flowers during Christmas time and continues to flower till March. Jasminum sambac (Motia and the double one is called Mogra), Tabernaemontana (Chandani), Camellia japonica, Azalea, Hamelia patens, Nyctathes arbortristis (Night Jasmine of Haar Shringar), Forsythia spp, Buddleia, Calliandra (Powder Puff), Thungbergia, Beloperone (Dwarf shrub flowering all round the year), Cestrum (Raat ki Rani), Justicia (Round the year flowering) and Thevatia peruviana (Yellow flowers, called Peela Kaner). In the hills, it is common to see Privet, Fuchsia, Azalea, Camellia, Keria Japonica, Lagerstroemia indica, Forsythia, Myrtle and Gardenia.Winter FoweringBarleria cristata, Calliendra spp, Plumbago rosea, Olea fragrans, Euphorbia pulchrrima, Poinsettia pulcherrima and Cassia alata are some of the winter flowering shrubs commonly grown here.For FragranceCestrum nocturnum (Raat ki Rani), Cestrum diaurnum (Din ka Raja), Jasminum sambac, Jasminum auriculatum, Olea fragrans, Camellia, Buddleia and Gardenia are some of the highly fragrant flowered shrubs commonly grown in Uttarakhand. For FoliageAcalypha, tricolour, Nandina domestica, Codium variegata (Commonly called Croton, not suitable for hills, take extra care during winter in Doon), Excoecaria bicolour, Euphorbia continifolia, Juniperus chinensis, Golden Duranta are some of the shrubs grown for their ornamental foliage. Shrubs for the hillsAcuba japonica, Keria japonica, Hydrangea, Azalea, Camellia, Buddleia davidii, Forsythia spectabils, Gardenia, Juniper, Nerium Oleander (All the above mentioned can be grown in Doon and Haldwani too), Fuchsia magellanica, Laburnum, Myrtus communis (Myrtle). Privet, Juniper, Spirea, Cherry.Specimen ShrubsThese shrubs are planted singly or in groups in the beds on the lawn to create a picturesque effect. They have elegant foliage and produce beautiful flowers. Bougainvillea, Hibiscus, Hamelia Patens, Thevatia peruviana, Lagerstroemia, Cassia artimisoides, Calliendra, and Crotons are some suitable shrubs for this purpose. For Borders and hedges For shrubbery border, an area of the garden devoted exclusively to shrubs is chosen. Formal hedges are chosen to secure privacy and provide partition. A lot of effort is required to maintain hedges. Duranta, Lawsonia (Mehandi), Lantana and Hibiscus are also used for border shrubbery or as hedges. In addition, Wild Rose is also commonly used for this purpose. In the hills, Gardenia and Azalea are commonly used as hedge plants.


PLANTING SHRUBS


Location: Some shrubs like Mussaenda, Azalea, Fuchsia, Gardenia, Pentas and Impatiens need partial shade. Others like Crotons and Mussaenda need protection from frost. Hibiscus, Poinsettia need full sun to grow. Taller shrubs should be planted as focal point while dwarf ones should be planted as border or along the beds.


Soil: Loamy garden soil with good drainage is best for most shrubs, but most of them can tolerate any kind of soil provided it has good drainage. The ground should be prepared at least 15 days prior to planting. Dig the pits at least two ft deep and two ft wide. Refill the pits with mixture of Garden soil, Coarse Sand, Cattle dung manure and leaf mould in equal proportions. Dust the mixture with Lindane dust to prevent damage by termites and other soil insects. Most shrubs can be planted in monsoon or spring months.


Pruning of Shrubs: Shrubs need pruning in order to be kept in shape as well to keep them flowering. Winter flowering shrubs are pruned at the end of the summer season while summer flowering shrubs are pruned at the end of winter season. All the superfluous growth, old or weak branches are best cut at the ground level or as low as possible.

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

GARDENING WITH CLIMBERS

By ARUN PRATAP SINGH
Climbers are as essential part of a garden as are the trees or shrubs. In fact, they deserve place even in a small garden as their growth is more vertical than horizontal. They add height, colour and texture to any garden and the flowering types particularly make great addition to any garden with a fence, trellis, wall or pergolas for them to clamber over.Climbers are a good way to cover walls and fences with flowers and foliage. But they aren't all demure clingers. Some are whopping great monsters as they spread so quickly spreading all over. In a small garden, one must make sure to choose the right type of the climber.Climbers are plants that either have some means of supporting themselves or need external support to reach greater heights for sunlight and air. They have either tendrils, curling leafstalks or adventitious roots which they use for support. The climbers that do not have any inbuilt system to support themselves are actually twiners from a botanist’s perspective. They just twine or coil around the support, even cover it and reach the top. In addition, some shrubs that climb are also called commonly called climbers.They add beauty, colour in a striking way or fragrance in gardens. They are also used to screen or decorate artificial structures like walls, pergolas, pillars, cascades, trellis or arbours and topiary, etc. Climbers from a gardener’s view are of two types, annual and perennial ones. Morning Glory, Sweet Pea, Nasturtium and Convolvulus are common annual types while Bignonia purpurea, Pyrostegia venusta (Also known as Bignonia venusta, incorrectly though), Allamanda, Ivy, Lonicera (Honey Suckle), Quisqualis indica (Rangoon Creeper), Bougainvillea are more common in Uttarakhand and other parts of North India. In the hills, Wisteria, Clematis, Clerodendron and Nasturtium, Ivy and Campsis are more common.
PLANTING THE CLIMBERS: Generally, Monsoon months are suitable for planting most plants and trees. With the exception of deciduous plants, almost everything can be planted during the spring and monsoon months. In the hills, however, it is better to plant during early monsoon because by September, it starts to get colder at nights, so the planting operation should be carried out by August end. Also it should be remembered that so many of the trees, shrubs or the climbers in the hills are deciduous and should be planted during the winter months when they are dormant. Soil: Most of the climbers prefer a soil having good drainage. For smaller shrubs or climbers, three ft wide pits and two ft deep pits should be dug up. The soil should be well mixed with 5 to 10 kgs of cattle dung manure, 30 gms of Sterilised Bone Meal, half kg of Neem Cake and 10 gms of some soil insecticide like Fenvalerate or Chlorpyriphos dust to check the attack of termites. This dusting must immediately be followed by watering to settle down the soil. If the soil is not having good drainage, then it is important to improve the soil by adding bulky organic matter and large amounts of coarse sand after digging the entire soil up to a depth of four to six ft. This is however not an easy operation.
SELECTION OF CLIMBERS
There are different situations in any garden like sunny, partial shade or shade. In addition, the purpose of planting the climber in any particular situation is also an important factor in deciding a suitable climber. For Sunny situations: Pyrostegia venusta (Orange flowers-Commonly called Bignonia Venusta), Bignonia purpurea, Quisqualis indica (Rangoon Creeper of Jhumka Bel-Flowers white changing to pink and then red), Antigonun leptopus (Coral Vine-Rose pink flowers), Adenocalyma (Pink, mauve or yellow), Bougainvillea sp., Campsis grandiflora (Orange), Allamanda sp.(Yellow flowers), Bauhinia sp. (Yellowish white) and Thunbergia. For Partial shade: Clerodendron splendens, (White flowers with red beads) Petrea volubilis (Purple wreath-purple flowers), Lonicera japonica (Honey Suckle-White flowers tinged with mauve), Tecomella capensis (Orange trumpet like flowers), Trachelospermum jasminoides (White star like flowers- Commonly called as Star jasmine), Asparagus plumosa, Ficus pumila, Hedera helix, Scindapsus aureus, Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, Pothos (Money plant) and Synogonium spp. (Foliage Climbers).For Fragrance: Jasminum grandiflorum (Shahi Chameli-Fragrant White flowers), Jasmine officinale (Spanish jasmine), Trachelospermum jasminoides, Hiptage benghalensis (Madhavi lata), Clematis (many coloured flowers suitable for the Hills and Doon Valley only), Lonicera japonica (Honey Suckle), Stephanotis floribunda (White flowers suitable for hills, Wisteria sinensis (purple flowers- suitable for hills), Passiflora cerulea (Passion Flower-purple or red Flowers).Heavy Climbers: They produce luxuriant vegetative growth and grow vigorously. They cover a large area and are suitable for covering big walls or terraces. They are required to be pruned to keep them in bounds. The time and method of pruning varies from species to species. Some common heavy climbers are Antigonon leptopus (Coral vine), Bignonia magnifica, Beaumontia grandiflora (Nepal Trumpet- big bell shaped flowers in March- April) , Bougainvillea sp. Hiptage benghalensis, Quisqualis indica (Rangoon creeper), Jasminum spp., Wisteria sinensis, Pyrostegia venusta, Thungbergia grandiflora, and Clerodendron splendens.Light Climbers: They are such climbers that do not grow very vigorously and do not require regular or severe pruning. Some common ones are Allamanda spp., Asparagus plumosa, Bignonia purpurea, Gloriosa superba, Lonicera japonica, Clematis flammula. Tecomeria capensis.Deciduous Climbers: Deciduous climbers shed their leaves during winter. Some common ones are Antigonon leptopus, Campsis grandiflora, Campsis radicans, Cissus discolour, Clematis sp. Pyrostegia venusta, Jasminum officinale.Flowering in several flushes during the year: Adenocalymma allicea (pink Mauve or yellow flowers), Ipomea palmate (Railway creeper), Jacquemontia violacea (purple), Perugularia odoratissima, Rosa spp.(Climbing Rose), Thungbergia grandiflora, Vallaris heynelli and Trachelosprmum jasminoides.
CLIMBERS FOR THE HILLS: Aristolochia macrophylla, Caesalpinia sepiaria, Campsis grandiflora, Clematis flammula, Hedera helix, Lonicera, Trachelospermum Jasminoides, Rosa spp. Wisteria venusta, Stephanotis, Thungbergia alata. In the hills, it is common to see climbing roses too though they are the shrubs that climb. Their care is also similar to that of shrub roses. Climbers for pots: Bougainvillea, Thungbergia alata (Susan’s Black Eye), Gloriosa, Clitoria ternatea, Pothos, Philodendron, Syngonium, Ivy (Hedera) and Boston Ivy. In large pots, Alamanda, Clematis can also grow. Annual climbers can easily grow in large pots. Grapes are also grown in pots in some smaller gardens.Annual Climbers: They are seasonal plants and can be grown temporarily in the garden. Sweet Pea (Lathyrus), Trailing Nasturtium, Convolvulus, Ipomea lobata, and Clitoria ternatea are commonly grown annual climbers.Climbers for Indoors: Some shade loving climbers like Pothos (Money Plant), Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, Asparagus can be easily grown in post and even kept indoors. Climbers For hedge: Clerodendron inerme and Bougainvillea make good hedges. Fruit Vines: Grapes can also be grown as climber in home gardens. In addition, seasonal vegetables like Cucumber may also be grown.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
After planting the climbers, it may become necessary to train in the first year to have the desired design or growth effect. After planting, regular watering, hoeing, and weeding are necessary to reduce the mortality rate.
Pruning: Deciduous climbers are usually pruned during winter months. While some are pruned in the rainy season, others are pruned just after the flowering. Beaumontia grandiflora and Congea tomentosa can stand severe pruning during the rains. Antigonon is quick growing and flowers for seven to eight months in a year. This should be pruned at least twice every year in March and then September. Thungbergia is pruned after flowering is over.Petrea volubilis does not like heavy pruning. Clerodendron splendens flowers in winter and should be pruned in July. Quisqualis indica requires thorough cleaning and regular pruning. It is pruned low during the winters. Clematis is pruned low during the rains. Allamanda should be pruned in spring just before the flowering season.

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Bill soon to prevent non-agricultural use of farmland in Uttarakhand

Bill soon to prevent non-agricultural use of farmland
By Arun Pratap Singh
Dehradun, 13 Aug: Uttarakhand Government will soon bring a legislation to prevent non-agriculture activities on farmland. Sources added that a bill was being drafted in this regard. Sources added that the Chief Minister was unhappy over large scale conversion of land use from agriculture to commercial, industrial and residential purposes. At the directions of the State Government, no land use conversion is being allowed in the state by the concerned authorities. The State Government had already declared its intention that it would not encourage industrialisation on agriculture land in the state. It is learnt that the proposed bill under preparation would include a provision that agriculture land would not be made available for SEZs and other industrial purposes.Sources claimed that the draft bill might also include a provision that all agriculture land abandoned or left intestate would get vested with the Government. This provision, however, is likely to generate controversy. Sources claimed the Government felt that agriculture was chiefly carried out on small holdings and the government wished to ensure that it was not abandoned even in case of small holdings. According to a rough estimate, more than 30 percent of agricultural land in the hills was not being cultivated and was, therefore, prone to becoming infertile and faced danger of erosion as well. The State Government has already launched a drive to identify all such farms that have either been left intestate or had been abandoned. The sources also admitted that Government ostensibly wanted to ensure people did not leave their farms uncultivated. They would be required to either cultivate the land themselves or give it on contract to others to cultivate in case such a provision was included in the draft bill. They also admitted that Government was very seriously looking forward to contract farming as a way to encourage agricultural activity in the state. The proposed provision could be a way to justifying the contract farming that has so far generated mixed reaction.However, the bill was mainly aimed at preventing non-agriculture use of farm land and disallowing easy land use change of agricultural land. Sources informed that in Dehradun, alone, there had been more than 188 cases from April 2001 till March 2007 where land conversion was done by the MDDA of large plots. Most of the conversion was done from Agriculture to Commercial and the remaining was done from agriculture to mixed use or residential purposes. Uttarakhand has less than 12 percent cultivable land as more than 63 percent of its geographical area is covered by forest. There was an urgent need felt by the Administration to preserve the remaining agricultural land. Sources at the Chief Minister’s office claimed that Khanduri was very firm on not allowing any land use conversion for some time to come. All the district administrations have already been directed not to allow any land conversion at their levels. In fact, the MDDA was reportedly told in Doon to identify illegal constructions on farmland and demolish it.

Dashing Dahlias!

Dashing Dahlias!
By Arun Pratap Singh
Dahlia is one the most popular bulbous plants grown all over the world. It is one the top five flowering plants in the world. It is considered a must in any Indian garden as well. Height in Dahlia plants varies from 30 centimetres to 2.5 metres tall with flowers up to 45 centimetres across. Flower-heads range from tiny pompom-like balls to huge spider-like flowers. Dahlias are highly suitable for the climate that exists in most parts of Uttarakhand.Grouping of Dahlias: Dahlias are now grouped into 10 or more different groups according to the characteristics of their flower-heads. They are Giant (More than 25 cm), Large (20 - 25 cm), Medium (15 - 20 cm), Small (10 - 15 cm) and Miniature (less than 10 cm). There are several classes of Dahlia-Anemone: Anemone-flowered dahlias have fully double flower heads with one or more rings of flattened ray florets surrounding a dense group of upward-pointing, tubular florets that are longer than the disc florets of single-flowered dahlias.Semi Cactus and Cactus: Semi-cactus dahlias have fully double flower heads with pointed ray florets that are broader at their base than those of the cactus dahlia. They are re-curved for about one half their length toward the petal tips and are either straight or curl towards the centre. Cactus dahlias have fully double flower heads with long, pointed, narrow ray florets that are re-curved for over half their length. They are either straight or curl toward the centre of the blossom.Decorative: (Small, Medium, Large and Giant Decorative cultivars). Decorative dahlias have fully double flower-heads without a central disc. Ray florets are generally broad, flat or slightly incurved at their margins with blunt points. Sometimes they may be slightly twisted.Pompom: Ball and Pompom dahlias are similar. Ball dahlias have fully double, ball-shaped flower-heads with spirally Arranged ray florets incurved for more than half their length, and blunt or rounded at their tips. Pompom dahlias have a more spherical flower head with florets incurved for their whole length. Flower heads do not exceed 52 centimetres across.Collarette: Collerette dahlias have flower-heads with a yellow disc in the centre, an outer, single row of usually flat ray-florets (these may or may not overlap) and surrounding the central disc is an inner ring of shorter florets (the collar).But it is the Decorative, Cactus and Pompom which are most commonly grown in the home gardens, though it is common to see Collarette Dahlia, too, in Mussoorie and Nainital Gardens as a wild flower during the summers. Dahlias are highly suitable as cut flowers, as pot flowering plants and are also used as annual border plants.GROWING DAHLIASDahlias are tuberous-rooted plants. They may be grown in garden beds or in the containers. They may be planted as dormant or just-sprouting tubers or as rooted cuttings taken from tubers or the growing tips of the stem. Plants in leaf are preferable to tubers because they are often more vigorous. Tubers are usually planted in the hills and should be planted directly into the flower bed or border in April. Tubers may also be planted in Dehradun in March. For the home gardeners, it is better to plant rooted cuttings available in September from the nurseries. Soil and Location: The site should be in full sun for best results. However, they can also be planted in places which are partly sunny. Dahlias should be grown in a fertile, humus-rich (with lots of cattle dung manure or leaf mould) and well-drained soil. For the pots, a good soil mix would be two parts of good garden soil, one part of leaf mould or coco peat, one part of coarse sand and one part of well rotted cattle dung manure. To this mix add powdered Neem cake @ 25 gm per pot and half tea spoon of soil Agromin (a mixture of Micro- nutrients) or Multiplex. Dahlias do not like dry soil, so it should never be allowed to dry out completely. Pot grown dahlias should be planted carefully. Avoid disturbing the root ball and firm gently, leaving a small depression at the base of the stem. Water thoroughly immediately after. Plants that will reach a height of 1.2 to 1.5 metres are best planted 2 to 3 ft apart, while those growing to 90 to 120 centimetres are best positioned about 2 ft apart. Feeding: Dahlias are heavy feeders, and if flowers of superior quality are desired, the plants must be given a well-balanced supply of nutrients throughout the season. Top dressing the soil with leaf-mould or well rotted cattle dung manure will be beneficial. One part of Urea, two parts of Single Super Phosphate, one and half part of Muriate of Potash and a quarter part of Soil Agromin or multiplex mixed with two parts of powdered Neem Cake and one part of Sterilised Bone Meal is good Dahlia Mixture. This mixture can be fed @ one to two table spoons per plant as per the size of the plant. Alternatively, one can feed them with compound fertiliser mix like Poly Feed (Nagarjuna Fertilisers) or Nitrophoska (BASF) @ one to two tea spoons per plant. Newly planted cuttings should not be fed with this mixture till they establish themselves. Staking and General Care: Bedding dahlias requires no staking or disbudding; however, to encourage bushiness pinch out the grown tip, and remove dead and faded flowers. Tall growing Dahlias require staking. Stakes or canes can be inserted at planting time or when needed. Remove the growing tip when about 35 to 45 centimetres tall to encourage branching. If really large blooms are wanted, all but three to six flowering stems should be kept. To achieve high-quality flower-heads, remove the two pairs of buds developing in the leaf axils below the terminal bud. Remove the flowers as they fade.Propagation: Propagation is from seeds, tubers and cuttings. The terminal cuttings are taken from the stems or basal shoots of the plant in August and September and inserted into pots having coarse sand and peat after removing the lower leaves and dipping the cut end into a rooting hormone. Once they develop roots, they can be transplanted. Cover the cuttings with moist coco-peat and place in a location that receives morning sun. When shoots have grown to about 7 centimetres in height, they can be removed with a sharp knife cutting just below the lowest pair of recognizable leaves. Insert each singly in pots containing equal parts potting mix and coarse sand. Application of a rooting hormone will aid in root development. Rooting occurs best in a warm, humid area, and if cuttings are taken early plants should flower the first year.Pests: Dahlias are susceptible to aphids, red spider mites, some caterpillars and slugs. They can be subject to attack by powdery mildew, mosaic virus, tomato spotted wilt virus and to rotting of their tubers in storage. Spray Rogor and Malathion @ 2 ml each / per litre water to get rid of most pests. For Fungal problems, spray Mancozeb (Dithane M-45) @ 3gm/litre of water.SOME POPULAR CULTIVARS: Kenya Yellow, Kenya White, Kenya, White Nobby’s Light, Swami Vivekananda, Bhikku’s Vivekanand, Kelvin, Kelvin Red (all Giant Decorative), Prime Minister, Tenzing Norgay, Mangal Pandey, Black Out, Black Out Sports, Zail Singh, Bhikku’s Mother, Bhikku (Large and Medium Decorative), Hit Parade, My Love, Sonia, Ludwig Helfert (Cactus), Blush Willow, Night Willow, Yellow Gem, Natal and Anupam (Pompom).

Saturday, July 28, 2007

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